Tag Archive > The Surfers Journal

Edge boards and the Mysterious Mr. X, The Surfer’s Journal 26.1

Hello, there. The first issue of The Surfer’s Journal in 2017, 26.1 is filled with excellent reading and intriguing photography. I am thrilled to have my documentary feature about the history of edge boards included in this issue. Congratulations to TSJ with the clean new publication design, and amazing content. We are happy to see [...]

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#19 Rests In Peace

Hi there. Today San Diegans and the world celebrate the life of Tony Gwynn, Mr. Padre. May you rest in peace Mr. Padre, thank you for your inspirations. Today Steve inadvertently put the tee-shirt on with TSJ 19 and #19 is Tony Gwynn’s number.  Around midday he realized that he was wearing his shirt with [...]

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Where the Swell Begins

Hello there. Recently I’ve been honored to assist Dr. Walter Munk with another project, a new edition of Where the Swell Begins. Walter is the greatest oceanographer of all time,  and is also inspiring with how kindly he lives his life. Walter continues his passion for his research well into his 90s. Over the last [...]

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Steen’s Pendoflex knee machine and high aspect fish

Hello there! Since the 1960s we’ve loved surfing with our knee-rider friends here in San Diego and thereabouts . . . memories of surfing points north in the early days, and seeing George Greenough riding his spoons, matts and other craft also come to mind. The knee-riders have always pushed the limits of wave riding [...]

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Flex in The Surfer’s Journal, Vol 18, No.4-Summer 09

Soundings VI: A Question of Flex
Interviews and Portraits by Devon Howard and Andrew Kidman
This text is excerpted from the contents on the TSJ web page for the issue: Like the weather, if seems that while everybody talks about flex nobody does anything about it. That’s been our read anyway. We gathered a Genius Congress of shapers—not [...]

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